I’ve been geeking over spinning wheels for a decade
now and have wanted a pullover featuring little saxonies for about that long. I
opted for a fingering weight yarn because I wanted to keep the wheels small but
still detailed, and also because of my ridiculous sock yarn stash (have I
mentioned I’ve yet to knit socks?). I didn`t pay enough attention to yarn
amounts, so the amount listed is a guesstimate.
Sizes :
30.75 (34.5, 38, 42) - I am wearing size 30,
with approx. 2 inches of negative ease at the bust. Sleeves are also a bit tight on me.
Yarn and gauge :
Fingering weight yarn with a gauge of 26 sts
and 34 rows per 4 inches.
I used Sweet Georgia Sock Love in Tumbled Stone for
my main colour (MC) and Malabrigo Sock in Natural for my contrast colour (CC).
There was a slight difference in gauge between the two yarns so I actually
suggest to pick a brand and stick with it for the whole sweater.
For the smallest size, I used less than 2 skeins of
the CC and less than 2 skeins of the MC. For the other sizes I suggest at least
2-3 skeins of each colour. I’m sorry I can’t be more precise!
Needles:
US 3 and US 4 circular needles. I love my tiny Hiya
Hiya 9” circular needles for knitting sleeves, but of course magic loop or DPNs
will also do.
Abbreviations:
MC = main colour. This will be the colour of the
body and upper arms.
CC = contrast colour. This will be the colour of
the ribbing and the spinning wheels.
K1tbl = knit 1 though back loop (insert needle from
the front into the back of the stitch and knit)
M1L = make 1 left (pick up strand between stitches
by inserting needle from the front and knit through the back loop)
M1R = make 1 right (pick up strand between stitches
by inserting needle from the back and knit through the front loop)
Notes:
- If the sizes seem a
bit small keep in mind that they are to allow for the negative ease at the
bust.
- This sweater is knit
bottom up so it's not ideal for trying on as you knit. Please note the
measurements for sleeve and body length - I have a long torso and arms for
my height so the suggested lengths may not be right for your own
measurements. Measure twice, knit once (I did not do this, and had to
lengthen the sleeves after the fact… if you squint you can see the wonky
spots where I had to pick up stitches and add a couple inches!)
Body:
With CC and using US 3 needles, cast on 100 (112,
124) stitches, place marker (PM), cast on another 100(112, 124) stitches, PM
and join to work in the round. = 200 (224, 248, 272 sts).
Set-up round for ribbing : *(K2, P2) to end of
round.
Next round: begin twisted rib : *(K2TBL, P2) repeat
to end of round.
Continue in twisted rib for 3.5 ( 3.5, 3.75, 4)
inches.
Next round: change to US needles and work in
stockinette stitch for 1 inch.
Begin colourwork:
Next round: attach MC and for ROW 1: *(k1 MC, k1
CC), repeat from * to the end of round. ROW 2: *(k1 CC, k1 MC), repeat from *
to the end of round. Repeat these two rows 2 more time.
Next round: Break off CC, and knit 1 round even
with MC.
Next round: Begin shaping with a decrease row:
*(k2, SSK, knit 2 4 sts before marker, K2tog, knit 2). Repeat from * once more.
4 sts decreased in round.
Repeat decrease row every 7th row 5 more
times. Knit 6 rounds even.
Next round, time to start increasing again: *(k2,
M1L, knit to 2 stitches before marker, M1R, k2). Repeat from * once more. 4 sts
increased in round.
Repeat increase row every 7th row 5 more
times. You should be back to having 200 (224, 248, 272 sts).
Knit even for 4 inches.
Next: Separate for front and back: *knit to 7
(8, 8, 9) stitches before marker, bind off 14 (16, 16, 18) stitches, repeat
from *. You should have 86 (96, 108, 118) sts for each front and back.
Put aside and cast on for the sleeves.
Sleeves:
With CC, cast on 56 (60, 68, 72) sts using size US
3 needles, place marker and join to work in the round.
Set-up round for ribbing : *(K2, P2) to end of
round.
NEXT ROUND: begin twisted rib : *(K2TBL, P2) repeat
to end of round. Continue in twisted rib for 6”.
Next row: Change to US 4 needles and work in
stockinette for 1 inche.
Increase row : k1, M1L, knit to 1 stitch before
marker, M1R, K1. 58(62, 70, 74) sts.
Knit 2 rows even.
Next round: attach MC and for ROW 1: *(k1 MC, k1
CC) to the end of round. ROW 2: *(k1 CC, k1 MC) to the end of round. Repeat
these two rows 1 more time.
Next round: Break off CC, and knit 1 round even
with MC.
Repeat increase row every 10th row 5
(7, 9, 9 ) more times. 68 (76, 88, 92) sts. Work even until sleeve measures
desired measurement from underarm to wrist. My sleeve is 15 inches.
Next row: *knit to 7 (8, 8, 9) stitches before
marker, bind off 14 (16, 16, 18) stitches, repeat from *. Place remaining 54
(60, 72, 76) sts on holder and set aside.
Joining the sleeves to the body and knitting the
yoke:
With the strand of yarn still attached to the main
body, knit 86 stitches across front, knit 54 (60, 72, 76) sts from one sleeve,
86 (96, 98, 116 ) sts from back piece, and remaining 54 (60, 72, 76) sts
from the other sleeve. You now have 280 ( 312, 360, 388) sts on the needles.
Size 30.75 and Size 38 only : knit 2(4) rounds even. 280(360) sts.
Size 34.5 only: knit 1 round,
increasing 8 stitches evenly spaced. 320 sts. Next row: knit 1 round even.
Size 42 only: knit 1 round, increasing 12 stitches evenly.
400 stitches. Next row: knit 4 rounds even.
All sizes: knit 5 rounds even, then begin spinning
wheel chart.Work rows 1-23 of spinning wheel chart.
Working towards the neckline:
Next round - decrease round: *k3(3,2,2), k2tog,
repeat from * to end of round.
Work 12(15,16,16) rounds even.
Next round – decrease round : *k2(2,1,1), k2tog,
repeat from * to end of round.
Work 6 (14, 15, 16) rounds even.
Now. This is where I did some short row shaping to
bring the back neck up a bit. I'm going to try my best to explain my favourite
method:
Place a marker in the center top of each shoulder.
Pick which side you want to be the back of the sweater. You will work the
short rows between the two markers on that side.
Knit one round, passing the first marker and
knitting up the the second marker. At the marker, wrap and turn.
Now that the wrong side is facing you, purl your
way back to the first marker. Wrap and turn.
Now that the right side is facing you, knit up to 4
stitches before the marker (4 stitches before the first wrap and turn). Wrap
and turn.
With wrong side facing again, purl back to 4
stitches before the marker (again, that's 4 stitches before the wrap and turn),
wrap and turn.
Work back and forth like this, wrapping and turning
always 4 stitches before the last time, until you have raised the back of the
neck to your liking – I did it for approximately 10 rows of knitting, or 1.5”.
With right side facing you, knit 2 rounds, picking
up wrapped stitches as you go.
This web page describes a similar technique and probably does so
much better than I do, so take a look if I've only muddle things up.
Next row: *k1(1,1,2), k2tog, repeat from * to end
of round.
Change to US3 needles (or don’t - I didn’t!) and
work in twisted rib for 1 inch, binding off loosely. Seam underarms. Block.
Like my other “patterns”, Fileuse is free, because:
a) I’m terrible at writing down
directions;
b) I have no test knitters and
only have experience knitting my size;
However, should you knit Fileuse with reasonable
success (in other words – I didn’t lead you down a path of knitter’s
frustration and tears with my blathering and pitiful math) and you feel like
opening your wallet, closet, or pantry after all is said and done, I’d like to
make a suggestion. See, the weather here in Canada is getting wonderfully cool
and crisp, and while part of me is giddy with anticipation (pumpkin scones!
wool everywhere all the time!), I also start to get really anxious for the less
fortunate who will soon be outnumbering the available shelters. If you feel so
inclined, please consider making a donation of time, money or items to a
charity helping the homeless. If you’re in Toronto or the GTA, here is a list of items in need at the Covenant House and here is one for a variety of other organisations including
soup kitchens and drop-in shelters .
A quick Google search should provide similar information for
organisations in your part of the world.
Next week I’ll be posting the pattern for matching
fingerless gloves, if I can get around to photographing them in natural light - I've been getting home from work later and later and daylight is already scarce after 7!
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