Wednesday, September 24, 2014

Long Draw

J'écris à partir de mon lit ce soir, accompagnée de plusieurs piles de mouchoirs et de tasses de tisanes abandonnées mais à moitié pleines (je fais ma difficile - j'aime mon thé CHAUD). Je ne peux pas trop grincer les dents par contre, c'est ma première grippe depuis l'été 2013! Je n'ai guère envie de tricoter en ce moment (c'est un méchant rhume quand on perd le goût pour la laine!). Je vais tenter de compenser pour ma paresse en offrant un autre patron dans la même veine que la semaine dernière : une paire de gants pour garder les mains au chaud lors qu’assise au rouet (ou pas!)

I'm writing from my bed tonight surrounded by piles of kleenex and half-empty tea mugs. I won't complain too much since this is my first real cold since last summer... although here's hoping this one doesn't feel it has to make up for lost time! Since I hardly feel like knitting, I'll make up for it with another pattern and share the little gloves I knit to match Fileuse, a simple fingerless mitt with duplicate stitch saxonies to keep hands warm at the wheel (or anywhere else).






Yarn: 
Two colors of fingering weight, sock yarn is great. I used Malabrigo Sock in Natural and Shelridge Soft Touch Ultra. I'm not sure how much of each to be honest, they were bits of leftovers.

Needles:
- A set of US2 DPNs or circular needles to work magic loop
- A set of US3 DPNs or circular needles to work magic loop

Gauge:
7 stitches = 1 inch in stockinette stitch using size US3 needles.

Finished size:
9 inches cast on to cast off. Flat part of the hand: approximately 8 inches circumference.




Pattern:

With color A (CA) and US2 needles, cast on 52 sts, join to work in the round and place marker to mark start of round. 

Set-up round for ribbing : *(K2, P2) to end of round.
Next round: begin twisted rib : *(K2TBL, P2) repeat to end of round.
Continue in twisted rib for approx. 4.5 inches.

Switch to US3 needles and work in plain stockinette for 9 rows.

Next round: attach color B (CB) and for ROW 1: *(k1 CA, k1 CB) to the end of round. 
ROW 2: *(k1 CB, k1 CA) to the end of round. Repeat these two rows 1 more time. 

Next round: Break off CA, and knit 1 round even with CB. 

To create the thumb hole, you will now begin to work the piece as though you are knitting flat and not in the round – turning your work at the end of each row (knitting the 52 knit stitches, turning your work at the end of the row, then purling back 52 stitches). Work 15 rows like this (approx. 1.5 inches), thus ending with a knit row.

Join to work in the round again (with the right side facing), and work even for 14 row. 

Switch to US2 needles and work in twisted rib for 4 rows, bind off loosely.

To finish the thumb hole: With US2 needles, pick up 28 stitches around the thumb hole. Set-up round for ribbing : *(K2, P2) to end of round.
NEXT ROUND: begin twisted rib : *(K2TBL, P2) repeat to end of round. Work in twisted rib for 3 more rows, then bind off loosely.

Consult wheel chart for placement of duplicate stitch motif. 
Don't know how to duplicate stitch? Craftsy has a well-illustrated tutorial here
I started stitching my wheels 3 rows after the colorwork ends, that way there are three rows after the wheel motif before the ribbing starts, lending the mit a bit of symmetry. Speaking of symmetry, eyeballing the wheel in the centre of each glove was hit or miss for me, that's why the chart I've just created is exactly 26 stitches wide, so that you can place yours much more precisely than I did :)

Of course, if you're not as averse to intarsia as I am, you can knit the colorwork in as you go and I've numbered the rows to make that easier if you choose to go that route.